カッパ（吉祥寺）のもつやき

カッパという吉祥寺のもつやき屋で、飲んで来た。

学生時代からの友人の松下哲雄さんに連れられて行ったのである。

吉祥寺の丸井の斜め前の店なのだが、

木造の古い１９５０年代風の店。

込んでいる。

私たち二人も、しばらく立って飲んでいた。

部屋の隅にＬ字の棚が作ってあって、

そこにもつやきと焼酎のコップを置いて、

食って、飲んで、席の空くのを待つ。

立って飲んでいるのは、まだたくさん居る。

同じ様に壁の脇に庇のような棚があって、

そこにへばりついて飲んでいる人が居て、

席が空くと、

お盆に、酒ともつやきと、食った残りの櫛を乗せて

席に持って行く。

お勘定は、この串の数と皿の数で割り出されるからだ。

台湾人の若いかわいい娘が、

サランラップで包んだ電卓を持って、

串を数えて、金額を出している。

最初に食べたのは、串に刺してあるのだが、

レバ刺しで、

美味しかった。

これから、食うこと食うこと、凄い量を食った。

その内の席が空いて、われわれも

座る。

注文は松下さんがいってに引き受けてくれて、

私は食べる専門である。

店の雰囲気は独特で、

客は談笑しながらではあるが、

何か真剣に食っているのである。

店の人もストイックで、

ただひたすら真剣にもつやきを焼き、

そして酒をつぐ。

私は焼酎を、ひたすら飲む。

隣の客が、それは年配の上品な紳士であったが、

終わってお勘定を払いながら、

私にむかって、良く食べていますね、と

話しかけて、去って行った。

確かに、私も松下さんも健啖家で、

良く食っている。

次に座った若い男も、

我々の櫛の量を見て、話しかけて来た。

松下さんは、彼に酒を薦めたから、

なおさら話が弾んで、この不動産屋のセールスマンと仲が良くなる。

不動産は、この不景気なのに、繁盛していると言う。

お金に困った金持ちが、

土地を急いで手放すので、

市場は活性化していると言う。

結局彼の櫛代を含めてだが××××円を超える金のを、

松下さんが払った。

１本90円の焼き鳥だから、

われわれの食った量の凄まじさがわかる。

こういうもつやきは、もちろん、B級グルメであって、

芸術分析的には、次の様になる。

《想像界》の舌で《８流》の《真性の芸術的味覚》

《象徴界》の舌で《８流》の《真性の芸術的味覚》

《現実界》の舌で《８流》の《真性の芸術的味覚》

《現実界》の料理、液体料理

《気晴らし料理》《下層料理》

前に書いたと思うが、

芸術の趣味判断は味覚から始まったので、

もつやきを、《真性の芸術》と判断する事は、

まあ、比喩としては出来ないわけではない。

そこにはフロイトの言う《退化性》や、《非合法性》があるのである。

だからといって、もちろんもつやきを芸術であるというのは、

多くの人の了解を取るのは無理なのだが、

だが、再度、味覚にまで立ち戻って、

芸術とデザインの境目を、考えてみる必要がある。

そこで、次はデザイン的エンターテイメントとしての味覚を

探求しなければならない。（つづく）

コメント 29

大変愉快な「芸術分析」で大いに笑わせていただきました。
by 丈 (2008-12-01 14:41) 

丈さん、ありがとうございます。



by ヒコ (2008-12-03 02:25) 

学芸大学駅前に味のそっくりな系列店と思われる店ができたとの情報が。

もつやき「大膳」＠学芸大学

こちらはまだできたばかりなので、とても新しいようだ。
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